Day 10, II

Gyueon doesn't seem to really become sentient until after lunch, it seems. Most days, around 2 or 3. He and JH have long conversations. They don't know each other that well actually. His father (JH's) brother took a job in another city 5 years ago and moved the family. So, we don't see much if them. This trip is a good way to get to kind him. When they start talking, sometimes I listen and try to keep up but it's hard. Usually, I drop back a bit because I don't want to interfere when they are bonding. As I said, he is shy. It's good to see him talk.

We walked along an little-used railroad track. JH naturally worried, "what if a train comes? What do we do?"

"Well, get off the tracks!"

Not a minute after the course turned off the tracks, a train came by.

We stopped for lunch in Pinhiero do Bomposta, which is my second favorite town so far, just behind Coimbra. It reminds me of the typical New England small town, with a Main Street and a few businesses. Lunch was just 5.20! We checked the price three times but it was "certo". Great deal!

Today, it seemed like we walked past a much high percentage of devout Catholic households. Many places had Jesus or Mary statues in the yard. Many house still had baby Jesus banners still hanging from Christmas. Village squares had big stone crosses or other symbols. I want to say there were fewer barking dogs but, although I didn't write about dogs, there could have been some and I just didn't notice.

The stone walks were particularly interesting today-- walls on top of walls on top of ancient walks, enclosing walls, enclosing other walls.

We climbed up a cobble stone road to Oliveira de Azemeis, which is perched at 230 meters, providing great views of the valleys on either side. It looked like a great place to spend the night.

We didn't really try to look for the 3 pensaos listed-- after the miserable night in the basement, JH and Gyu were dying for a warm and clean place. We went from feast to famine to feast at the Dighton Hotel.

We showered, reorganized, washed a few things, hung them strategically around the heating vent, and hit the town in search of food. We discovered another MIA Brierley recommendation (no disrespect for him, his book is a gem)-- the Art Club appears to be gone. We didn't see any sign of the Residential La Salette across the street either but we didn't look too hard.

Nothing court out fancy so we wandered down to Pensao Restaurante Anacleto and found the restaurant closed (not out of business though). We circled back to a place across the Dighton that had caught our eye and went in with high hopes. They talk the talk but the food was mediocre at best. I'm starting to think that Korean food, with its variety and spiciness had ruined all other food for me.

Washed up in bed by 9. Asleep by 9:30.

Photos

1 [removed]

2 the best lunch cafe ever

3 Pinheiro da Bemposta

4 up the hill to Oliveira de Azemeis

5 welcome to Oliveira don't make me type it again.