Day 16, Barcelos

Looks like JH has a cold. She's coughing and has aching bones. She's willing to
walk. We've had so many crises-- mud, rain, flood, getting lost, laundry problems, aches and pains, barking dogs, yesterday's alien invasion, and now a zombie outbreak.

As expected, we were cold last night, especially me since I was so far from the tiny space heater. I should have worn long underwear like JH suggested. We woke up at 8:30, later than ever. Oops, were supposed to leave by 9. Not gonna happen. The Brazilians were still sleeping while we aye breakfast. The cleaning lady came and though she wasn't shooing us out, she was encouraging us to leave. Somehow, the Brazilians got up and ready and left at 9:30, ten minutes before us.

Again, it started rain just as we left. I'm starting to suspect a conspiracy.

The first 3km was mostly dirt farm roads, muddy but we've seen much worse. There was no need for heroics or risky maneuvers. The stonewalls in this area are different, built with flatter stones (slate?), stacked like magazines. In several places the walls are collapsed and like tipped over bookcases.

Lunch was a bit of mistake. We aren't thinking clearly and rushed a decision. I think that's due to the scary couple kms before-- a narrow two lane road of speeding cars, with no shoulders and high stone walls forcing us onto the road. There was no place to go. I kept imaging a car skidding, bouncing off the walls and smashing us.

I knew there was a cafe in the front, but we ended up walking into the restaurant in the back. Before I could come to my senses, our wet jackets were hanging by the fire and we were seated with menus in hand. We ordered big meals that we really didn't want and felt put of place among the families around. The food was… eh. It was probably good, I think it just wasn't what we wanted.

After, the owner, Antonio, came over from the cafe to meet us. He is popular onv peregrinos for his kindness and enthusiasm. He kidnapped me, taking me through the connecting kitchen to the cafe to get stamped and photographed. He finally took me back to JH who started up think that is ditched her and gave Gyueon a shell necklace. Very nice man. I wished I'd been in my right mind and gone to the cafe instead. We would have had better food, good conversation, and not spent so much money.

As we left, the Brazilians trudged by, looking even more miserable than they were wet. We were confused-- how were they behind us? The son explained they'd stopped to eat. I wonder where. We left them behind, expecting to see them again in Barcelos.

Photos